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Les îles bretonnes : de la carte postale à la réalité Regard d'Espérance
«Le problème, c’est que je ne peux pas interdire aux gens de venir» déplorait, il y a quelques semaines, Philippe le Fur, maire de l’île d’Houat ; résumant ainsi le sentiment général des membres du conseil d’administration de l’association des îles du Ponant, réunis fin septembre à Ouessant. Oui, cet été, de fin juin à mi-septembre, les îles bretonnes ont dû faire face à une marée humaine sans précédent ! Les navettes de la compagnie Penn Ar Bed ont ainsi «transbordé» des quais du continent sur ceux des îles, 22% de plus de passagers que les années précédentes ! En cette année de Covid19, plus que jamais, les territoires ultramarins bretons semblent répondre à un idéal de villégiature, voire plus, pour nombre de nos concitoyens. L’insularité idéalisée serait tendance… rajoutant paradoxalement bien des soucis pour ces territoires de la pointe bretonne dont la problématique de développement est déjà loin d’être simple !
Cet été, plus que jamais, des centaines de milliers de «touristes» sont venus s’émerveiller, se ressourcer ou se réfugier dans le cadre enchanteur que sont les îles du Ponant.
Comme d’ordinaire durant l’hiver, les bateaux des compagnies maritimes assurant la liaison avec le continent avaient pourtant tourné quasi à vide… l’annonce du premier confinement ayant toutefois amélioré les statistiques…
Trois millions de visiteurs… Mais, dès la mi-juin et durant tout l’été, à Batz, Ouessant, Molène, Sein, Groix,… ce sont parfois des milliers de personnes qui ont débarqué sur ces «rochers» au milieu de l’Océan ! Jusqu’à 5000 par jour à Bréhat!
«Deux chiffres suffisent pour comprendre la situation: nos îles, sur lesquelles résident 16000 personnes à l’année, attirent chaque année 3 millions de visiteurs», explique Denis Bredin, directeur de l’association des îles du Ponant. Et d’ajouter : «Il faut que l’on arrive à contenir l’affluence», car, cet été, les limites ont clairement été dépassées.
Manne financière non négligeable pour la pérennisation de la vie économique (80% à Bréhat!) et la vie tout court sur l’île, cet afflux n’en est pas moins désormais source de contraintes, voire de problèmes, la montée des tensions entre habitants, résidents secondaires et touristes n’en étant qu’une illustration!
Ainsi, outre l’effet «envahissement», cette population qui, dans la journée, peut subitement être multipliée par 20, 30, … 100 parfois, consomme (ne serait-ce que de l’eau), produit des déchets, sillonne le littoral… et nécessite des infrastructures d’accueil (surdimensionnées), imposant à la collectivité des investissements coûteux, disproportionnés, au regard des moyens et besoins réels de l’île! Un focus sur les quatre îles finistériennes permet de comprendre les enjeux actuels autour de ces territoires si singuliers…
Un coût de la vie 30 à 40% plus cher ! Depuis la fin des années 60, les 4 îles finistériennes sont confrontées au problème majeur qu’est le fort déclin de leur population (de -43 % à Batz, jusqu’à -76% à Sein). Ce déclin fait suite principalement au départ de jeunes vers le continent, exode coïncidant avec une forte érosion des activités dites traditionnelles (pêche et agriculture notamment). Dès lors, le vieillissement de la population s’est marqué encore plus qu’ailleurs, les plus de 65 ans représentant 40% de la population (17% en France) et les moins de 18 ans seulement 12,5% (22% dans l’Hexagone).
Si la situation n’est pas comparable sur les quatre îles, la majeure partie des causes de ce «déclin» relatif est semblable à celles observées sur tous les territoires ruraux. Mais les conséquences sont elles, bien souvent, renforcées par le caractère insulaire de ces micro-territoires marins. Ainsi, par exemple, alors que les activités présentes offrent des emplois relativement peu qualifiés (secteur primaire, service, tourisme,…) et à faible rémunération, le coût de la vie est supérieur de 30 à 40% à celui du continent.
De même, le coût du logement est aujourd’hui quasi rédhibitoire pour les jeunes (entre 1900€ et 3000€ le m2, contre 1600€ en moyenne dans le Finistère) ! Si la transmission de génération en génération des résidences entre îliens n’a guère facilité l’arrivée de jeunes actifs venant du continent, elle a également eu pour effet de parcelliser à l’excès le foncier, rendant aujourd’hui la construction de logements «sociaux», à l’initiative des mairies, extrêmement complexe, d’autant que s’y ajoute une multiplicité de règles d’urbanisme, dues à la loi Littoral, aux zones agricoles protégées, au Parc Marin…
Maisons secondaires et “syndrome de Bréhat” Mais l’exode rural de la seconde moitié du XXe siècle est également à l’origine de l’apparition d’un autre comportement «d’îliens en partance» vers le continent: la vente au plus offrant de maisons de famille! Recherché par de «riches continentaux» prêts à y mettre le prix fort pour posséder une maison secondaire sur une île, l’immobilier a flambé. Rendant inaccessible le logement pour les natifs ou les jeunes désireux de s’installer, ce comportement a eu pour autre conséquence aujourd’hui de neutraliser et d’atrophier la vie sur les îles durant une grande partie de l’année ! Et ce, d’autant plus que la proportion des logements secondaires s’accroissait. Il varie aujourd’hui de 42% à Ouessant à 67% à Sein!
Tous sont, désormais, bien conscients qu’il importe d’éviter ce qu’ils nomment le «syndrome de Bréhat» (plus de ¾ de logements secondaires et une île «morte» les deux tiers de l’année, mais bondée et «artificielle» l’été). Pour autant, avec des taux de fonction touristique de 250 à 359% et une très forte saisonnalité la marge de manœuvre est faible !
Le tourisme est bien entendu une carte économique à jouer… Mais il ne doit aucunement faire oublier la nécessité du développement d’activités productives autres, sources de richesses, vecteurs d’un développement endogène et gage du maintien d’une population pérenne sur les îles. Si Batz s’en sort relativement bien, avec les activités qui y sont qualifiées par les îliens de « nobles », à savoir l’agriculture (primeurs) et la pêche, à Ouessant et Molène, ces secteurs, bien que potentiellement porteurs, peinent à redémarrer, alors que, sur Sein, ils sont désormais moribonds.
Re-développer des activités productives Quoi qu’il en soit, une réelle redynamisation et diversification de l’activité sont aujourd’hui nécessaires. A Ouessant, par exemple, les entreprises comme Algues et Mer ou Les Ouessantines montrent une voie possible, en valorisant les ressources marines… À Molène, aussi, des projets d’exploitation des énergies marines renouvelables sont en cours… Car, pour apporter de la richesse sur leur territoire et se développer, ces îles se doivent d’exporter et ne pas se contenter d’une économie présentielle, d’activités uniquement tournées vers l’autosuffisance… De 37% à Batz, ce taux atteint pourtant 76% à Ouessant! Même si, bien sûr, la présence de commerces et services de proximité (épicerie, boulangerie…) est un enjeu primordial pour permettre à la population de demeurer sur place.
L’offre de santé, encore plus qu’ailleurs, demeure problématique, non pas pour les urgences car les îles disposent d’un service d’hélicoptère d’urgence, mais pour le suivi quotidien d’une population qui plus est vieillissante, dont le maintien à domicile est la seule option, faute de structure adaptée. Si bien entendu, compte tenu de sa proximité au continent, nombre de problèmes liés aux transports et déplacements, sont à minorer pour Batz, en revanche pour Ouessant, Molène… un rendez-vous, par exemple, chez un spécialiste, nécessite la plupart du temps de partir la veille en bateau, de dormir sur le continent et au mieux de revenir le lendemain soir sur l’île !
Le paradoxe du transport… et le drive navette Le maintien des écoles et du collège «des îles du Ponant» (115 élèves) est indispensable pour maintenir des familles et pouvoir envisager un avenir. Ainsi, depuis 1975, les moyens sont mutualisés et les enseignements dispensés par des enseignants itinérants, voire par visio conférences à Sein et Molène… Mais le passage au lycée reste une étape charnière !
Il y a quelques temps, une étude menée par des enseignants-chercheurs de l’université de Brest a voulu comprendre, notamment en interrogeant un échantillon de 12% des adultes des îles finistériennes et tous les enfants des écoles et collèges, quelles étaient les nombreuses spécificités de la vie sur les îles vues par les autochtones eux-mêmes…
Plusieurs réalités sont ainsi apparues, comme la difficulté de l’accès à certains loisirs, à la culture, le dilemme acheter moins cher sur le continent, se faire livrer par «drive navette» ou acheter local et faire vivre l’indispensable commerce de proximité ou encore les relations parfois claniques ! Mais l’étude passionnante révèle aussi l’enjeu essentiel et paradoxal du transport et de l’accès aux îles : la continuité territoriale est une volonté partagée. En revanche, l’inquiétude quant à la préservation à l’avenir de l’îléité (mode de vie et manière de concevoir l’existence sur l’île) n’est pas uniforme.
Se définissant volontiers froids en apparence, parfois rudes… mais chauds et accueillants envers ceux qui n’arrivent par sur «leur» île en territoire conquis…, les îliens sont d’autant plus prudents, voire méfiants vis-à-vis des continentaux et de l’importation de leurs «valeurs», que leur île est aisément accessible.
Préserver les valeurs de l’îléité ! Mais plus que tout, c’est à leur liberté, à leur qualité de vie (qu’importe la rudesse!) qu’ils tiennent! Prendre le temps de vivre dans un cadre naturel qu’ils entendent bien conserver, voilà l’horizon qu’ils veulent préserver.
Mus par un très fort sentiment d’appartenance et de fierté, les «ultras marins de la Penn Ar Bed» aspirent, plus que tout, à ce que, demain, il leur soit toujours possible de «vivre et travailler sur leur île»! Alors, accueillir oui, mais d’abord dans cette optique…
En cela, la Covid19 semble ne pas avoir que de mauvais effets… Car, comme le glissaient dernièrement malicieusement plusieurs maires îliens: «Certains, venus se confiner ici en mars dernier, ne sont toujours pas repartis» … et semblent bien avoir découvert qu’il y a une vraie vie, loin du continent !
pulvinar Nullam eleifend felis velit, sit fringilla venenatis, odio sed dictum ut