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Une grande partie de l’histoire d’Huelgoat se découvre dans sa forêt. Regard d'Espérance
Bien que la forêt d’Huelgoat n’ait pas la superficie de celles d’Orléans ni des Landes, qu’elle ne soit pas la plus grande chênaie d’Europe (forêt de Tronçais, 10500 ha dans l’Allier), ni la plus grande hêtraie (Iraty au pays Basque), elle ne manque pas de charme et de mystère, d’histoire et de légende, blottie au cœur du Poher au pied des Monts d’Arrée.
Après ces semaines de confinement où pour la plupart nous avons dû nous contenter durant de longues semaines d’un petit cercle d’un kilomètre autour de notre domicile, une petite escapade à travers le massif forestier d’Huelgoat pour cheminer entre les roches du chaos granitique, le long des méandres d’un ruisseau ou dans la forêt profonde, en respectant les consignes de distanciation, devrait redonner un peu de moral ou tout au moins un peu d’exercice physique, puisqu’il paraîtrait que le confinement nous aurait fait prendre quelques kilos…
Avec le retour des beaux jours, chaque printemps, nombre de promeneurs venant parfois de fort loin arpentent ces bois, n’imaginant pas qu’ils remontent aussi un peu l’histoire d’un lieu qui de ci, de là, a laissé son empreinte, parfois sa légende, embellie par les conteurs bretons.
Huelgoat et sa forêt abritent en effet un bon nombre de sites historiques, mis en valeur par les archéologues qui en ont répertorié plus de 1700 dans le pays centre-breton, du menhir dressé depuis des dizaines de siècles aux canaux creusés pour alimenter en eau les mines de plomb argentifère abandonnées en 1934.
Mais le plus visible est sans aucun doute l’oppidum de 34 ha qui occupe une position stratégique, laissant deviner ses enceintes et son rempart de terre et de bois de plusieurs mètres destiné à absorber les chocs des béliers guidés par les envahisseurs. Un site impressionnant pour l’époque où la vie économique devait rassembler alentour nombre d’artisans. La mise en place ces derniers temps de nouveaux panneaux d’information permet aux promeneurs de mieux comprendre l’histoire du site.
L’arrivée des Romains, davantage séduits par la capitale des Osismes, a sans doute contribué à un désintérêt croissant pour la vie, sans doute plus rude, du camp d’Artus, en privilégiant Vorgium (Carhaix), carrefour géographique et militaire, mais c’est une autre histoire.
Cheminer vers la Mare aux sangliers, du côté du Gouffre, de la Grotte du diable ou parcourir les 2,6 km de muraille du camp d’Artus, suivre le canal supérieur ou tout simplement se perdre sous les ombrages de cette forêt aux multiples atmosphères, peu importe après tout, le promeneur de ce début d’été goûtera sans doute un peu plus qu’à l’accoutumée le plaisir retrouvé d’une promenade en pleine nature… un plaisir tout simple presque oublié.
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